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Guitar Lessons #1

Three Important Patterns

by Bill Majoros
11-19-2003

The most important thing about improvising a solo is knowing where the notes are on the fretboard.  The better you are at envisioning the locations of the notes on the fretboard, the more fluid and confident your playing will sound.  A significant part of what makes players like Satriani and Malmsteen sound so expert at improvisation is that they have nearly instantaneous access to any note in the key, because they have studied the patterns and have developed an excellent memory for how those patterns superimpose over regions of the fretboard for a given key. 

I call these patterns the keyspace -- i.e., the positions of all the notes in a given key on the fretboard. 

The first step toward achieving mastery of a keyspace is to learn how to navigate locally among the notes of a key.  I prefer the minor key for my work, so we will restrict our attention to the minor keys.  The major keys are the same, but with a different root note, and the hungarian and melodic minor keys can be obtained through slight modifications.  We'll leave these for a future lesson.

Within the minor key there are only three 3-note patterns that occur over the fretboard.  If you can learn to play these 3-note patterns fast, then you will be able to start shredding the fretboard by simply playing these patterns one after another at different positions on the fretboard.

Pattern A
(figure 1)

The first pattern, which I call "Pattern A" is played with the first (index), third, and fourth (pinky) fingers, as shown above.  The numbers inside the ovals simply represent order -- in this example I'm playing the lowest note and ascending up the string toward the right.  These diagrams will always represent your view of the fretboard as you look down on it (assuming you finger with the left hand and pick with the right -- otherwise, reverse the image left-to-right).

In the diagram above, the '1' oval marks the root note of the minor scale, as you will see.  It is the most important note of the scale (in the usual mode), and is the one to which you should always retreat if you get lost.

Pattern B
(figure 2)

The second pattern, Pattern B, is shown above.  The greyed oval marks the root note, which is what you played with your index finger when you played pattern A.  To play Pattern B, slide your hand up two frets and then finger the pattern as shown, with first (index) finger, second (middle) finger, and pinky.

This seems very basic, but I'll show you how to do some wicked things with these patterns later.  For now, let's move right along to the third pattern.


Pattern C
(figure 3)

Pattern C occurs above (to the right of, on the fretboard) Patterns A and B.  The greyed out ovals show the first two notes of Pattern A.  The greyed oval on the right is the note you played with your index finger in Pattern B.  To play Pattern C, simply slide your hand up one fret (to the right) and put your index finger where your middle finger had been for Pattern B.  Now place your index finger, middle finger and pinky on the fretboard in the '1', '2', and '3' positions as shown.  This is Pattern C.

Now comes an amazing fact: the entire minor key -- its entire keyspace -- consists of repeated occurrences of these three patterns.  Consider the following:


(figure 4)

All I have done here is I have taken the figure (3) above for Pattern C and continued superingposing the three patterns in a specific order until I had covered twelve frets -- and twelve is a special number by the way, as you notice from the dots at the twelfth fret of your guitar (unless, of course, you've got one of those clever necks with no dots).  Twelve semitones (frets) make up an octave.  So the diagram above covers one octave, from the root note of the minor key up to the next root above it.  The way we went from one root to its octave was by applying the three patterns in succession: ABCABC. 

You can see this more clearly in figure 5, where I have duplicated figure 4 four times and highlighted the patterns with red boxes.  (These four tracks do not represent four strings, by the way -- I just duplicated the diagram for one string so that I wouldn't have to draw all those red boxes on the same string all at once -- that would be hard to read).


(figure 5)

However, after that last Pattern C comes another Pattern C before we can start the whole succession again.  If you had an enormously long fretboard you could play a succession of minor scales on a single string by playing the following patterns while moving progressively up the fretboard:

ABCABCCABCABCCABCABCCABCABCCABCABCCABCABCCABCABCC...

I've underlined the duplicated C's here, just to point out that they do represent a slight irregularity in the sequence.  (and note that I don't mean the notes A, B, and C, but the patterns A, B, and C, as I defined them above).

The secret to improvising in the minor key is to learn how these three patterns repeat endlessly over the fretboard.  I have just shown you how they repeat horizontally along the length of a single string, but now we must consider how they occur vertically -- something of potentially greater practical value, because knowing this will allow you to play long scales very rapidly at a single position on the neck (i.e., without having to slide your hand up and down the neck, which can be difficult to do with great precision when you're playing fast).

Consider figure 6, below:


(figure 6)

Whoa!  That's a lot of notes.  And it doesn't look very orderly.  Not the type of thing you'd figure would be easy to memorize.  But it's a lot easier than it looks.

What I have done to produce this figure is to move from the low E string up to the high E string while applying the following sequence of patterns: AACCCB.  You can see this by looking at figure 7. 

In figure 7 I have duplicated the fretboard just for convenience, and put red rectangles around each of the patterns.  Putting all the red rectangles on the fretboard at once looks confusing, so just look back and forth at the two fretboards and you should see that all notes are accounted for by one of the three patterns.


(figure 7)

An interesting thing that you'll note is that there are three Pattern C's in this figure, and only two Pattern A's and one Pattern B.  In truth, if your guitar had a seventh string beyond your high 'E' string you could continue onto that string, and then (if it was tuned right) you'd play another Pattern B.  That's because Pattern A's come in twos, and Pattern B's come in twos, too.

But Pattern C comes in threes.  Why?  Who knows.  Anyway, an easier way to remember the way these patterns join together is shown schematically in figure 8:


(figure 8)

This diagram illustrates not only that Patterns A and B come in twos and that Pattern C comes in threes, but also that when playing vertically (across the strings), Pattern C falls between Patterns A and B.  This was also evident in figure 3.

But there is something else that this figure shows a little more clearly than figure 7, and that is that Pattern B sits one fret higher on the fretboard than Pattern C.  In general, when you are in the heat of a raging solo and you find yourself ascending through a scale consisting of two Pattern A's, the next pattern will be Pattern C, which will (in general -- we'll see an exception in a moment) align with Pattern A on it's left edge, so that you needn't slide your hand up or down the fretboard -- your index finger just moves to the next string without moving left or right.  However, when moving from Pattern C to Pattern B, you must slide up the fretboard by one fret before playing Pattern B.

This is what I call the C/B rift.  The C/B rift occurs only between patterns C and B.  If you are ascending from a Pattern C on one string to a Pattern B on the other, you must be prepared (except in the case I'm going to tell you about in just a second) to slide up one fret.  Conversely, if you are playing a descending scale, then when you move from a Pattern B on one string to a Pattern C on the next lower string, you must slide down one fret.  Such a rift does not occur between any of the other pairs of patterns.

There is one exception to the above rules, and that is the transition between the G and B strings.   These are the third string from the bottom (third thinnest) and the second string from the bottom (second thinnest).  As you probably already know from tuning your guitar by ear, the number of half-tones between the G and B strings is less than that between all the other adjacent pairs of strings.  Normally you can tune your guitar by ear by playing one string at the 5th fret and playing the next higher string open, and these should be at the same pitch.  But when you tune your B string you instead place your finger on the fourth fret of the G-string, not the fifth.  I call this the B-string tuning anomaly

To get a feel for what the B-string tuning anomaly means in practice, look again at this figure which I showed you before:


(figure 6)

Now, if you look again at figure 8 you'll see that the three Pattern C's are supposed to line up, so that your index, middle, and pinky fingers stay at the same frets when moving from one Pattern C to the next.  But in figure 6 we have three Pattern C's (7-8-9, 10-11-12, and 13-14-15) which do not align properly.  The first two align, but the third one, because it occurs on the B-string, is shifted up one fret.  That is just as we would expect from the B-string tuning anomaly.  If it weren't for that tuning anomaly, figure 6 would look much simpler, with nearly everything aligning neatly, like in figure 8.  The B-string tuning anomaly is just something we have to live with (unless you get clever and retune your guitar...).  The tuning anomaly gets especially bothersome when it occurs in conjunction with the C/B rift, because then both phenomena introduce a single-fret shift when going from pattern C to Pattern B, so that you then have to shift up two frets before playing the B pattern.

Fortunately, the patterns A, B, and C, together with the C/B rift and the B-string tuning anomaly, account for everything you need to know about the minor keyspace.  Once you have this small set of rules firmly in mind you are ready to explore the fretboard on your own, which is the only way to develop a strong mental map of the keyspace. 

If you haven't already mastered the keyspace (the set of all notes in a particular key and where they occur on your fretboard), then I recommend the following exercise to help you develop your mental map of the fretboard:

Pick a random note anywhere on the fretboard, on any string.  Call this the root note, and hold it for several seconds so your ears acclimate to hearing it as the root.  Now, play an ascending scale by using Pattern A rooted at this note, then moving on to the next higher string, playing Pattern A again (because Pattern A occurs in twos, remember), then playing three Pattern C's, etc., until you run out of strings in that direction.  You must keep the C/B rift in mind if you transition from Pattern C to Pattern B before running out of strings, and when transitioning from the G string to the B string you must apply the B-string tuning anomaly by shifting up one fret.

Now turn your fingers around (metaphorically speaking) and descend back through the scale in reverse, until you return to the root note which you randomly chose, and then without stopping continue on to the lower strings by transitioning from that first Pattern A to a Pattern B, then to another Pattern B, and then to the highest of the three Pattern C's (applying the C/B rift!), until you run out of strings in that direction. 

Repeat this process many times, random choosing a root note, and then cycling through the A/C/B/A/C/B/... patterns.  Doing this will help you not only to develop a sense for the fretboard and the keyspace, but will also attune your ears to the minor scale.  When you have begun to feel comfortable with this exercise, you can extend it by sliding up one or two frets (as appropriate, according to figure 4) whenever you reach the highest or lowest string and continuing then in the opposite direction in the new position. 

You should eventually get good enough at this exercise to be able to start at any note on the fretboard and, through a series of A/C/B/A/C/B... transitions and position slides, move to any other note on the fretboard.  If you are a beginner, then this will take several weeks at least, but it is well worth the effort.

©2003 Bill Majoros.  All rights reserved.